Installation Instructions
All kits install in about a half-hour using only simple hand tools.
RF1/RF6 Remote Oil Filter Kits
RF1 Fits '93 - '08 Harley-Davidson Touring Models With 2:1 Exhaust
RF6 Fits '09 & Up Harley-Davidson Touring Models With Stock Exhaust or 2:1 Exhaust
1. Bring engine up to full operating temperature, then drain the oil and remove the old oil filter.
2. Install the spin-on adapter in place of, and in the same manner as, the old oil filter. If you're using our DB1 Direct To Block Adapter instead of the spin-on adapter, please see separate instructions.
3. USING A QUALITY 6 POINT SOCKET, remove the 2 bolts from the cast swingarm cap/passenger footboard mount. On some newer bikes these bolts were over torqued and appear to have been bathed in thread locker. DO NOT USE A 12 POINT SOCKET ON THESE BOLTS.
4. Apply 2 drops of blue Loctite or equivalent thread locker to the 2 new socket head cap screws provided with the kit and install the remote filter bracket and a new oil filter. On '09 and newer bikes use all 4 lockwashers provided. Due to the shape of the swingarm cap, you will put lockwashers between our bracket and the factory casting as well as between our bracket and the heads of the new Allen bolts. Torque the bolts as outlined in your service manual.
5. Install one hose at a time, starting from the engine. Bring them down through the opening at the very front of the primary and the front engine stabilizer link.
6. The hoses should go over the crossmember, then exit, and attach to their respective fittings. You want to leave enough hose so that they make nice easy bends, with no kinks, but you don't want so much extra that it sags or hangs down. Use extreme care so that the hoses don't get crossed.
7. Place a zip-tie around the bottom frame rail and both hoses as far forward as possible. Then place two zip-ties around the bottom frame rail and both hoses aft of the crossmember, right where they exit, to ensure the hoses can never get anywhere near the drive belt. Next, run a zip-tie up through the large hole in the crossmember, over the hoses and around the bottom frame rail. Lastly, place the remaining zip-ties around both hoses and the lower frame tube in equally spaced increments.
8. Replace the oil pan drain plug and fill with oil. Start the engine and check for leaks. Oil capacity will increase by 6 – 10 ounces. Start with your standard 4 quarts, run it for a short time, then slowly add as needed.
RF2-9308 kits- '93-'08 Harley-Davidson Touring Models w/ Stock Exhaust or True Duals
Notes:
1. "IN" and "OUT" are cast into the body of the spin-on adapter. They are also machined into the remote filter mount, but on the inside, in order to maintain the part's clean appearance. Oil flows OUT of the engine and IN to the remote oil filter and vice-versa. This is of critical importance as today's filters incorporate an anti drain back feature that will not allow backwards flow.
2. Please use the hose clamps supplied with your kit. People are sometimes, and understantably, leery of them because these clamps aren't what they're used to seeing. The clamps we provide are literally the highest quality screw-driven hose clamps we can buy. They're designed for use on fuel injection systems, where pressures are routinely much greater than anything we'll ever see with our bikes' oiling systems. They also provide equal clamping pressure around the entire circumference of the hose without cutting or digging into the rubber like regular worm-drive clamps.
3. We did much of our initial testing using clear hoses so that we could see exactly what was going on. This is what we found: When the engine starts, the supply hose fills in less than a second. It then takes several seconds to fill the oil filter, exactly as it does with the filter in its stock location. Lastly, the return line fills in the same less than a second. There is no appreciable difference in the time it takes to show oil pressure when running our kit as opposed to leaving the filter in its stock location.
4. Ideally, the "OUT" fitting on the spin-on adapter would end up toward the front wheel, although it's not a necessity. If you like, you can "index" or "clock" the spin-on adapter to get the hose fittings situated ideally. In the back of the spin-on adapter there is a hex nut held in place by a low tension retaining ring. You can remove the ring with a pick or an eyeglass screwdriver, rotate the hex in 1/6 increments, and then reinstall the retaining ring. If you need the fittings to rotate clockwise, you would rotate the hex clockwise, as you'd be rotating it from the rear.
Installation Instructions:
1. Bring engine up to full operating temperature, then completely drain the oil and remove the filter.
2. Install the spin-on adapter in place of, and in the same manner as, the old oil filter.
3. Remove the left-side passenger footboard and the round plug in the casting that allows access to the swingarm pivot bolt. Then remove the 2 screws that attach that casting to the frame.
4. Install the remote filter bracket using the new screws and lock washers supplied with the kit. Apply 2-3 drops of blue thread locker to each screw and torque to the specifications in your service manual. Then reinstall the passenger footboard with a drop of blue thread locker on the screw and torque to the specification in your service manual.
5. Connect the oil lines to the spin-on adapter, using the supplied clamps. Route the hoses down at the very front of your primary drive, along the inside of the frame rail, over the crossmember, and then out to the remote filter. Make sure the lines are situated in such a manner as to keep them tucked up above the bottom of the frame rail.
6. Using one of the enclosed extreme-duty zip-ties, secure the hoses to the left side frame rail, as far forward as possible. This is important, as we don't want the hoses rubbing back and forth on anything due to the engine's vibrations.
7. The hoses will exit after they come over the top of the crossmember, by the rear of the primary drive. Make sure the hoses aren't sagging underneath the bike and place a zip-tie every 8" or so.
8. Cut the hoses to the proper lengths and attach them to the remote filter, using the supplied clamps. You want enough hose left so that they make nice, sweeping bends, but not so much that they sag. The line that goes to the outer hole on top of the filter adapter is the inlet. The center hole is the outlet.
9. Place one of the zip-ties around both hoses and the frame tube right where the hoses exit. Run another zip-tie up through the large round hole in the crossmember, over the tops of the 2 hoses, and around the frame tube. This is to assure that the lines can never get anywhere near the drive belt.
10. Install a NEW oil filter, replace the drain plug per the instructions in your sevice manual and then add oil. Note that the kit will hold 6-10 ounces of additional oil. Fill as you normally would, and add accordingly after you've run the engine. Do not over fill or under fill.
11. Double check to ensure that everything is properly tightened, then start the engine and check for leaks. The supply line to the filter will fill with oil very quickly but it will take 15 to 30 seconds for the filter to fill before the return line fills up and shows pressure to the gauge. This is completely normal and happens every time you install a new oil filter, with or without our kit. You can shorten that time by pre-filling the new filter before you install it.
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1. "IN" and "OUT" are cast into the body of the spin-on adapter. They are also machined into the remote filter mount, but on the inside, in order to maintain the part's clean appearance. Oil flows OUT of the engine and IN to the remote oil filter and vice-versa. This is of critical importance as today's filters incorporate an anti drain back feature that will not allow backwards flow.
2. Please use the hose clamps supplied with your kit. People are sometimes, and understantably, leery of them because these clamps aren't what they're used to seeing. The clamps we provide are literally the highest quality screw-driven hose clamps we can buy. They're designed for use on fuel injection systems, where pressures are routinely much greater than anything we'll ever see with our bikes' oiling systems. They also provide equal clamping pressure around the entire circumference of the hose without cutting or digging into the rubber like regular worm-drive clamps.
3. We did much of our initial testing using clear hoses so that we could see exactly what was going on. This is what we found: When the engine starts, the supply hose fills in less than a second. It then takes several seconds to fill the oil filter, exactly as it does with the filter in its stock location. Lastly, the return line fills in the same less than a second. There is no appreciable difference in the time it takes to show oil pressure when running our kit as opposed to leaving the filter in its stock location.
4. Ideally, the "OUT" fitting on the spin-on adapter would end up toward the front wheel, although it's not a necessity. If you like, you can "index" or "clock" the spin-on adapter to get the hose fittings situated ideally. In the back of the spin-on adapter there is a hex nut held in place by a low tension retaining ring. You can remove the ring with a pick or an eyeglass screwdriver, rotate the hex in 1/6 increments, and then reinstall the retaining ring. If you need the fittings to rotate clockwise, you would rotate the hex clockwise, as you'd be rotating it from the rear.
Installation Instructions:
1. Bring engine up to full operating temperature, then completely drain the oil and remove the filter.
2. Install the spin-on adapter in place of, and in the same manner as, the old oil filter.
3. Remove the left-side passenger footboard and the round plug in the casting that allows access to the swingarm pivot bolt. Then remove the 2 screws that attach that casting to the frame.
4. Install the remote filter bracket using the new screws and lock washers supplied with the kit. Apply 2-3 drops of blue thread locker to each screw and torque to the specifications in your service manual. Then reinstall the passenger footboard with a drop of blue thread locker on the screw and torque to the specification in your service manual.
5. Connect the oil lines to the spin-on adapter, using the supplied clamps. Route the hoses down at the very front of your primary drive, along the inside of the frame rail, over the crossmember, and then out to the remote filter. Make sure the lines are situated in such a manner as to keep them tucked up above the bottom of the frame rail.
6. Using one of the enclosed extreme-duty zip-ties, secure the hoses to the left side frame rail, as far forward as possible. This is important, as we don't want the hoses rubbing back and forth on anything due to the engine's vibrations.
7. The hoses will exit after they come over the top of the crossmember, by the rear of the primary drive. Make sure the hoses aren't sagging underneath the bike and place a zip-tie every 8" or so.
8. Cut the hoses to the proper lengths and attach them to the remote filter, using the supplied clamps. You want enough hose left so that they make nice, sweeping bends, but not so much that they sag. The line that goes to the outer hole on top of the filter adapter is the inlet. The center hole is the outlet.
9. Place one of the zip-ties around both hoses and the frame tube right where the hoses exit. Run another zip-tie up through the large round hole in the crossmember, over the tops of the 2 hoses, and around the frame tube. This is to assure that the lines can never get anywhere near the drive belt.
10. Install a NEW oil filter, replace the drain plug per the instructions in your sevice manual and then add oil. Note that the kit will hold 6-10 ounces of additional oil. Fill as you normally would, and add accordingly after you've run the engine. Do not over fill or under fill.
11. Double check to ensure that everything is properly tightened, then start the engine and check for leaks. The supply line to the filter will fill with oil very quickly but it will take 15 to 30 seconds for the filter to fill before the return line fills up and shows pressure to the gauge. This is completely normal and happens every time you install a new oil filter, with or without our kit. You can shorten that time by pre-filling the new filter before you install it.
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RF5- Softail
- Bring engine up to full operating temperature, then completely drain the oil and remove the filter.
- Install the spin-on adapter in place of, and in the same manner as, the old oil filter.
- Locate & remove 2 plastic plugs in swingarm bottom rail. You may need to chase these threads with a tap or thread chaser.
- Remove swingarm pivot nut & washer (if washer present).
- Locate our bracket over the swingarm pivot bolt, apply 2 drops blue Loctite and install the nut "finger" tight. If there was a washer, do not use it. Our bracket becomes the washer.
- Install the 3/8" x 3/4" bolts through the lower holes in the bracket and into the swingarm lower rail with one drop blue Loctite on each.
- Torque the swingarm pivot nut to the specification in your Harley-Davidson factory service manual.
- Torque the 2 lower bolts to 25 ft/lbs.
- Atttach the hoses to the spin-on adapter with the supplied clamps and route them down at the front of the primary drive so that they run along the top of the frame rail with one to the inside of the frame rail and the other to the outside of the frame rail (see drawing). Place the enclosed extreme duty zip-ties at 4" to 6" intervals. There's no such thing as "too many" in this case.
- The hoses will exit immediately aft of the primary drive. Make sure to use one of the zip-ties where the hoses exit to ensure that they cannot get anywhere near the drive belt. Cut the hoses to the proper lengths and attach the hoses to the remote filter unit with the supplied clamps. You want enough hose left so that they make nice, sweeping bends, but not so much that they sag. The line that goes to the outside hole on top of the filter adapter, and marked with masking tape, is the inlet. The center hole is the outlet.
- Install a NEW oil filter, replace the drain plug per the instructions in your sevice manual and then add oil. Note that the kit will hold 6-10 ounces of additional oil. Fill as you normally would, and add accordingly after you've run the engine. Do not over fill or under fill.
- Double check to ensure that everything is properly tightened, remove the masking tape, then start the engine and check for leaks. The supply line to the filter will fill with oil very quickly but it will take 15 to 30 seconds for the filter to fill before the return line fills up and shows pressure to the gauge. This is completely normal and happens every time you install a new oil filter, with or without our kit. You can shorten that time by partially pre-filling the new filter before you install it.
Please Note. We did much of our initial testing using clear hoses so that we could see exactly what was going on. Below is what we found:
When the engine starts, the supply hose fills in literally less than a second. It then takes several seconds to fill the oil filter (exactly as it does with the filter in its stock location). Lastly, the return line fills in that same less than a second. There is no appreciable difference in the time it takes to show oil pressure when running our kit as opposed to leaving the filter in its stock (hideous) location.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Please Note. We did much of our initial testing using clear hoses so that we could see exactly what was going on. Below is what we found:
When the engine starts, the supply hose fills in literally less than a second. It then takes several seconds to fill the oil filter (exactly as it does with the filter in its stock location). Lastly, the return line fills in that same less than a second. There is no appreciable difference in the time it takes to show oil pressure when running our kit as opposed to leaving the filter in its stock (hideous) location.